Overnight Egg Bagels with Ramp Cream Cheese

with lots of tips to simplify and make them your own (and no, you don't have to make homemade cream cheese).

I’ve mostly moved on from my bagel obsession over the past few years, but I’ll never turn down an egg bagel. I didn’t try one until I moved to NYC, and now every time I get a bagel, I order the same thing: an egg bagel with scallion cream cheese. Bagels weren’t really a thing in Sweden until recently, so we only ate them when we were in the U.S.–unless my dad made them at home (which was a rare occurrence). Even though they’re becoming more popular, bagels are still not super common in Scandinavia, so if you’re reading this from outside the U.S., I hope you’ll feel inspired to make your own.

Egg bagels get their yellow color from egg yolks (and sometimes whites), which also make them richer in flavor, slightly sweeter, and softer than a classic bagel. While any bagel benefits from an overnight rise in the fridge–it deepens the flavor and improves the texture–I recommend starting the recipe the day before. You’ll not only get a better bagel, but you’ll also save time in the morning.

A subscriber suggested adding ramps (wild leek) instead of scallions to the cream cheese, which I loved. As a baker, I haven’t cooked with them much and this felt like a fun and easy way to incorporate them this spring. (Pictured below is the cream cheese served in a bowl made by my parents at their glass factory, AO Glass).

A few ways to simplify

• Because ramps are so seasonal, they can be hard to come by unless you have access to a farmers market or know where to look for them out in the forest. If you can’t find them or don’t want to go on the hunt, use the whites and light greens of 2 to 3 scallions instead.

• Egg prices are still up, so if you want to use fewer eggs then add 10 grams of water for every egg yolk you take away. They’ll still be great but won’t be as yellow or rich in flavor. You can also always save the whites and make a pavlova.

Additional tips & tricks

• If you’re using active dry yeast, activate the yeast before adding the rest of the ingredients. Combine the water, yeast, and sugar in the bowl; let it sit for a few minutes until the surface is slightly foamy.

• An overnight chill isn’t strictly necessary, but it does give the bagels a richer flavor and chewier texture. I also love it because it means less work in the morning. All you have to do is boil and bake.

Makes: 8 bagels